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December: Chichibu Yomatsuri Festival

December 01, 2023

Chichibu Yomatsuri Festival, Saitama(Google Maps)

With towering parasol floats, winter firework displays and only 90-minutes from Tokyo, the Chichibu Yomatsuri Festival is the perfect evening escape. A night festival with all the trimmings, it offers a chance to observe the continuation of tradition along modern streets and with new generations, all in one small and little-known city. Chichibu is northwest of Tokyo in Saitama Prefecture and is known for its valleys, the Chichibu Kannon Pilgrimage and of course, the annual festival which draws crowds of thousands.

As one of the three most beautiful float festivals in Japan, alongside Kyoto’s Gion Festival and the Takayama Festival of spring and autumn, the Chichibu Yomatsuri Festival is a lantern-lit spectacle. Its roots can be traced back 300 years to the founding of a silk market in the grounds of Chichibu Shrine. It is said that the shrine’s goddess Myoken and the Dragon God of Mt. Buko meet once a year during the festivities and are known as the winter versions of Tanabata’s star-crossed lovers. Entwining local ancient Suwa beliefs with the more recent additions of Myoken, the festival maintains a distinctly local feel. To this day, when the parade passes Suwa Shrine it falls silent, with the tradition known as “Osuwa-watari.” It’s no surprise that due to their cultural significance, both the floats and a traditional dance called Kagura have been named as Important Intangible Folk Cultural Assets by UNESCO.

Chichibu Shrine, Saitama(Google Maps)

The night festival features two flower parasol floats (kasaboko) and four lantern-layered wooden floats (yatai). Stunning in their intricate design, the unique parasol floats are called Nakachika and Shitago. They feature a tall central pole with a triple layering of parasols decorated with flowers, but since the installation of electricity poles and wires along the streets of the city in 1914, they are now pulled as floats. The four remaining floats represent the four local communities: Miyaji, Kamimachi, Nakamachi and Motomachi, with each taking it in turn to perform Kabuki in the floats as they travel. Visitors should be sure to look out for the intricate carvings of beasts, birds and ships that adorn their eaves and the stunning embroidery on their silk curtains as they pass by. To keep the crowds entertained and the pulling-teams motivated, each float holds taiko drum performers who’s arms seemingly never tire as they roll through the streets. Of course, it is the Japanese paper lanterns called bonbori which create the memorable images of floats lit against the skies, each handmade and delicate in its glow.

Beginning on the 2nd of December with a series of ceremonies for the local gods at Suwa Shrine, the festival is an evening affair. On the following afternoon, floats are displayed in their local area and at Chichibu Shrine before beginning the parade to the City Hall from around 7 p.m. Here, they are lined up along a slope and stand elegantly against the dark winter sky. From 7:30 p.m. the fireworks begin, framing the festivities until 10 p.m. when the event ends. Normally associated with Summer in Japan, the fireworks are a wondrous and special pinnacle to the night. Whether you’re heading for the final trains back to Tokyo or staying in town for a night of celebratory drinks, you’ll be surrounded by revelers who’ve shared in the festive atmosphere.

Miso Potato

The cold nights mean everyone needs a warming snack or even a hearty meal to keep them going, and the street stalls of Chichibu do not disappoint. From grilled ayu (sweetfish) to steaming bowls of thick udon noodles to miso-doused potatoes, the local flavors shine through in even the simplest of snacks. Stalls proffering amazake offer a chance to try something unusual, with the fermented sweet rice drink sure to be unlike anything you’ve tried before. As for the nightcap, be sure to have a glass of Ichiro’s Malt to end the night. Winner of best whiskey in Japan, it will be the perfect end to an incredible evening.

For more details, contact DMC Japan to discuss ideas, locations and rates.
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