Mt. Takao, Tokyo(Google Maps)

Bringing in the new year often involves wild parties, raucous countdowns and plenty of fireworks, but in Japan, it’s done a little differently. Hatsumode is the first worship of the new year, and is a quiet tradition for those who choose to take part. While these initial visits can take place over the first few days of January, many will gather with friends and family to visit at midnight and special ceremonies take place in temples and shrines throughout the nation.

One such event is the popular Geikosai tradition at Yakuo-in Temple on Mt. Takao. Tokyo’s most popular mountain, Mt. Takao is visited throughout the year, however, the annual New Year celebration is a particularly special time. Yakuo-in (full name Takao-san Yakuo-in Yuki-ji) was established over 1,200 years ago and is known for its unusual Tengu statues. Featuring crow’s beaks and long noses, the sinister Tengu are messengers of the deities and hold traditional fans that sweep away bad luck and bring in the good. On New Year’s Eve, the temple’s connections to good luck draw in the crowds, with many following the tradition of collecting an omikuji (fortune) for the new year.

Yakuo-in Temple, Tokyo(Google Maps)

Locals and travelers from afar will begin their hike to Yakuo-in on the evening of the 31st, waiting patiently for the Geikosai ceremonies to begin. Held between midnight and 5 p.m., the goma fire rituals are led by the head priest before the image of Iizuna Daigongen in the main hall. Iizuna combines elements of five different deities and protects from harm, bringing security and happiness to those who follow him. With a rather intimidating presence, he nonetheless brings people to salvation and presides over the fiery process. The fire ceremonies pray for happiness and health for families, with the blessing reaching out over many worshippers at a time.

Experiencing this blessing is not the end of the celebration, however, with worshippers staying atop the mountain until sunrise (between 6 a.m. and 7 a.m.). Geikosai means welcoming of the light, and refers to enjoying the first sunrise of the year. While this can be done from anywhere, watching it from Mt. Takao is a truly special moment. Prepared with warm clothes, hand-warmers and hot drinks, many will wait patiently for the first hints of light streaming across the mountain view. At sunrise, mountain ascetics (yamabushi) blow conch shells to announce its arrival while the priest reads traditional sutras for world peace. If the skies are clear, those gathered can see Mt. Fuji in the distance, adding a magical touch to already incredible experience.

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While hiking is one way to reach the temple, the mountain’s cable car also operates throughout the night, meaning it is accessible to all. Without a doubt, all that hiking and waiting will have built up an appetite, and there are some special new year dishes to try. While decorative boxes of osechi ryori are the special meal of the day, there’s a simpler, more down-to-earth dish that welcomes in the new year. Toshikoshi soba is a tradition believed to date back to the Edo-period, and specifically Osaka. The long, thin buckwheat noodles represent a long life and are easier to cut than their thicker udon counterparts, representing the ease of cutting off the bad luck of the past year. There are also legends around prosperity, with fine soba flour used by goldsmiths to collect gold dust. A simple dish with noodles served in a warming broth is traditionally savored on New Year’s Eve, but it is equally delightful on a fresh New Year’s morning. For a quick and lucky snack, be sure to try the Mitsufuku Dango—triple blessed dumplings, and if the Tengu haven’t scared you too much, try some of the temple’s Tengu-yaki, or grilled tengu-shaped pancakes filled with red bean paste.

Taking a quieter, more thoughtful approach to the new year can be a special experience, and welcoming it in with stunning views and the sound of conch shells can only be a promising start to what will likely be a fantastic new year.

For more details, contact DMC Japan to discuss ideas, locations and rates.
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